Cavatappi: when Macaroni spirals out of control.

23 Mar Cavatappi


Cavatappi is a fun shape that I love to substitute for the more common macaroni. In fact it looks much like two macaroni joined and twisted together.  The name Cavatappi comes from the Italiain words Cava Tappi, literally “tap extractor” or more familiar a corkscrew to remove wine corks…..You will find that your family recipe for macoroni and cheese is taken up a notch when it turns into Cavatappi and cheese…..

Here is a spectacular macaroni and cheese recipe adapted from Martha Stewarts classic rendition.

Serves 10 to 12

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for casserole
6 slices white bread, crusts removed, torn into 1/4- to l/2-inch pieces
5 cups milk

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons coarse salt, plus more for water
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg (quite optional)
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (I sometimes crank up the cayenne pepper!)
4 1/2 cups grated sharp white cheddar cheese (I often use extra sharp Tillamook Cheddar, a classic and delicious yellow cheddar)
2 cups grated Gruyère or 1 1/4 cups grated Pecorino Romano cheese (or both fellow cheese lovers)
1 pound Cavatappi

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a 3-quart casserole dish; set aside. Place the bread in a medium bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Pour the melted butter into the bowl with the bread, and toss. Set the breadcrumbs aside.

2. Warm the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter in a high-sided skillet over medium heat. When the butter bubbles, add the flour. Cook, stirring, 1 minute.

3. While whisking, slowly pour in the hot milk a little at a time to keep mixture smooth. Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the mixture bubbles and becomes thick, 8 to 12 minutes.

4. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in salt, nutmeg, black pepper, cayenne pepper, 3 cups cheddar cheese, and 1 1/2 cups Gruyère (or 1 cup Pecorino Romano); set the cheese sauce aside.

5. Cover a large pot of salted water, and bring to a boil. Cook the macaroni until the outside of pasta is cooked and the inside is underdone, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the macaroni to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well. Stir the macaroni into the reserved cheese sauce.

6. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Sprinkle the remaining 1 1/2 cups cheddar cheese, 1/2 cup Gruyère (or 1/4 cup Pecorino Romano), and the breadcrumbs over the top. Bake until golden brown, about 30 to 35 minutes or until golden brown.
Transfer the dish to a wire rack for 5 minutes; serve.

Delicioso and great hybrid of American and Italian favorites.

I will share a recipe for Cavatappi with potatoes in broth in a coming post.

De Cecco makes a nice Cavatappi and I find it readily available at my local HEB grocery store.

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Casarecce pasta are twisted scrolls that everyone should use in their favorite pasta dish!

20 Mar

Casarecce pasta from the Garofalo pasta company near Naples.

 

Casarecce are somewhat uncommon in the American kitchen. They are often described as pasta scrolls and the Casarecce pictured have a distinctive “s” shape. Many companies produce Casarecce and one of my favorite producers is Garofalo. Their Casarecce are organic and are consistently high quality. Garofalo is a storied company dating back to the 1700′s. They are located in Gragnano a city often referred to as the “city of pasta”

Believe it or not, my local Costco stocks Casarecce and at a good price! I found a great web post regarding Casarecce being made at home, here is a link: http://fxcuisine.com/Default.asp?language=2&Display=68&resolution=high

Casarecce are very well suited for capturing sauces of all types. They are often used with a ragu or Bolognese sauce, but one of my favorite uses is with basil pesto. I will share a basil pesto recipe in the near future.

Mangia bene!

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Pasta e piselli (Pasta with peas and prosciutto)

7 Mar
Ditalini with Peas

Pasta with peas and prosciutto

Ditalini is one of my favorite short pasta shapes. Ditalini lends itself very well to a wide variety of soups and classic pasta dishes such as pasta fagioli, minestrone, and pasta e piselli. The latter we will explore with a simple recipe. Ditalini, which means “little thimbles” in Italian, is most typically used in the Campania region of Italy.

Ditalini is tubular in shape, much like a petite form of Ziti, in fact the Ditalini are not much larger than peas. You might find Ditali or Ditaloni, which are close cousins, just a bit larger. If you can find it, De Cecco makes a Ditali rigati, which has ridges perfect for capturing sauce! One of my favorite recipes for Ditalini is to feature it with peas and prosciutto. I would like to share a simple recipe with you to try.

Pasta e piselli recipe:

The recipe below is for 3 people as a main course. (It can be readily and easily doubled to feed 5 or 6 people)

8 ounces of Ditalini. (1/2 of a traditional box of pasta)

1/2 yellow onion.

8 ounces of frozen peas. (more if you would like and fresh ones are always good, too!)

2 pieces of smoked, high quality bacon. (Pancetta is a great substitution)

2 pieces of Prosciutto. (as good as you can find)

1/2 teaspoon of cayenne (not traditional, but gives the dish a bit of depth)

Sea salt and pepper to taste.

Parmigiano reggiano. On March 10th, Whole Foods will have the traditional cracking of the Parmigiano wheel: follow this link: http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/departments/parmigiano-reggiano.php

The recipe is so very simple. Bring water to boil in a large stock, once it starts to boil, salt heavily with at least a tablespoon of kosher or sea salt. I like to use separate pans for the onions and the bacon/pancetta. In the first pan, add olive oil and the onion finely chopped. Keep the heat low, as you want to gently saute the onion. Salt and pepper the onions liberally….and if you are going to use cayenne you can add it to the onions at this point. Our goal is beautifully softened onions that are not brown.

In the second pan start cooking the bacon on medium heat, we want to brown the bacon and render the fat. Once the bacon is crisp and happy, I like to remove it to let it cool. Once it has cooled, I chop the bacon into small pieces and reserve. Into the same pan that we browned the bacon in, I cook the prosciutto. I slice the prosciutto into small ribbons and reserve for the grand finale. We now have a pan of prosciutto and bacon fat, which is culinary gold! I turn the heat way down and add the frozen peas and sauteed onions.

You can add your Ditalini to the salted, boiling water. Once it is cooked to a perfect al dente, drain and add to the peas and onions. Crank up the heat and toss in the prosciutto and bacon bits. It should smell like heaven at this point. Mix thouroughly and turn the heat off. It is time to introduce the king of all cheese to the party. I grate an ample amount of Parmigianno into the pasta.

You can now enjoy the fruits of your labor. Buon appetito!

 

 

 

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Orecchiette e Cavolfiore. (Orecchiette with cauliflower)

21 Feb

I would like to share a simple pasta dish with you, orecchiette e calvofiore.

Ingredients:

1. One pound of orecchiette. Use a high quality orecchiette: you should be able to see ridges and/or die marks in the surface of the pasta.

2. 3/4 of one whole cauliflower

3. 18 to 20 fresh cherry or grape tomatoes.

4. 3 garlic cloves. (more or less if you’d like)

5. 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil.

6. Red pepper flake, perhaps 1/2 tablespoon.

7. Black pepper

8. Sea Salt.

9. Parmigianno Reggiano, the best that you can find.

Cooking Technique.

You will need one large saute pan and a large, 12 or 20 quart, pot. Fill the pot at least 2/3 to 3/4 full and bring to a boil. Take a tablespoon of olive oil and over medium to high heat cook the cauliflower, salt and pepper to taste. Don’t overcook the cauliflower, you want it to be firm, yet cooked through. Once it is cooked, remove from the pan and set aside. Take the same pan and add 1/4 olive oil, the red pepper flakes and the garlic. I usually chop the garlic rather fine. Slice the cherry tomatoes into halves or thirds. You will then add the cherry tomatoes to the garlic, and olive oil. Keep the heat on medium or less, you want to gently saute this mixture so as to not burn the garlic.

Once the pasta water is boiling, salt it rather heavily. Add the orecchiette and set your timer for 10 minutes. Most orecchiette takes 12 minutes, but we do not want to overcook them: we are seeking the perfect al dente. Once your pasta timer rings, scoop out 1/4 cup of pasta water and reserve it. Drain the pasta.

Now you can blend together all of your ingredients in the large pan. Every ingredient should be mixed together at this point. I turn up the heat and saute everything together for about 2 minutes. You are almost done!

At this point, I turn off the heat and grate some Parmigiano Reggiano into the pasta, as much as you’d like. I turn it through and you are now ready to serve….

I think that you will find this classic pasta dish to be a family favorite…..

Buon appetito.

 

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Orecchiette a fantastic pasta to add to your pantry.

21 Feb

Rummo orecchiette

Orecchiette are a beloved pasta from Southern Italy. The names translates into little ear. (orrechio=ear, etto=little or small) They are often hand made by a skilled nona at an impressive rate of speed. Nona cuts a cylinder of pasta dough into little rounds and in a seamless motion pushes her thumb into each round pulling back just slightly, dragging the fledgling orecchiette across the rough surface of her cutting board. This deft motion adds the necessary texture to each and every orecchietta (singular) which is so important to catch your sauce of choice. In the picture above, you will find orecchiette no. 87 which is packaged version made by the Rummo pasta company.

It is interesting to note that orecchiette are likely to have been brought to Italy by the French 800 or 900 years ago!

Cime di rapa or Broccoli raab is one of the most famous vegtables to use with orecchiette. I have found American style broccoli, spinach and cauliflower to be good choices as well. As the vegtable and orecchiette take center stage the sauce is usually based on extra virgin olive oil, some red pepper flakes, pasta water and garlic. Simple and clean is best. I will post a recipe for Orecchiette e calvofiore very soon. Calvofiore mean cauliflower….and you will find this to be a spectacular dish.

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Cooking Pasta like an Italian: 8 easy steps.

27 Jan Pasta mischianza

Pasta mischianza

Cooking pasta correctly is the foundation to great Italian food. I thought I would take a moment and share some tips for cooking pasta like an Italian.

Perfect Pasta.

1. Use a large pot. Pasta likes to be cooked in an ample amount of water. If there isn’t enough water, your pasta might cook unevenly or worse stick together.

2. Water quality. If your water is of poor quality, then filter it. While using filtered water might seem obsessive, the flavor of the pasta will reflect the quality of the water that it is cooked in.

3. Salt the water. Once the water is boiling add an ample amount of salt. I use a kosher salt, but most any salt will do. At least 2 to 3 tablespoons. This is the first layer of flavor for your pasta, so please don’t skip this step! Do not add oil to the water, while it is a popular myth, the oil won’t help in any way. Save your oil for the finishing step, step 8 below.

4. Cook the pasta al dente. Follow the cooking time on the package and set your timer. I always subtract one minute from the package recommendation to ensure that the pasta will be cooked al dente. Just say no to overcooked pasta!

5. Reserve some pasta water. Just before draining the cooked pasta, I reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water. This is an important element in your final step. The starchy and salty pasta water is good stuff so use it!

6. Cook the sauce into the pasta. I always have a very large saute pan ready to go with my sauce of choice. Bring the heat up to medium high and toss in the pasta into your sauce. I mix in the pasta water and cook for about a minute, maybe two. This is a critical moment in time: you are creating the marriage of the pasta and your sauce and they definitely need some heat and a few moments to get to know each other.

7. Adding cheese. Now it’s time to add the Parmigiano Reggiano or perhaps some Pecorino Romano. Turn the heat off and add as much or as little cheese as you would like. Stir gently to integrate and you will be ready to serve.

8. Finishing the pasta. One pound of pasta will feed 4 or 5 people. So into your favorite bowls with your perfect pasta. The finishing step is extra virgin olive oil: I lightly drizzle a high quality olive oil over each portion.

It’s time to eat, so mangia bene.

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The Pasta Bank and Pasta e Ceci

11 Jan The Pasta Bank

One of my favorite traditions is to save a few pieces of pasta from every box when I am preparing to cook some pasta. I like to store these bits and pieces of pasta in this beautiful glass jar. I call it the “Pasta Bank” I dare say it is even rather fashionable!

Once in a while it is fun to raid the pasta bank and create a new dish. I find these mixed shapes ideal in soups or in pasta fagioli. I remember how important it was to my mom for certain dishes and we would head out to Borracchini’s Bakery in Seattle and hunt for mixed pasta by the pound. Many times the mixed pasta would be elusive or wouldn’t be of the right composition…..she would be so disappointed.

One of my favorite uses, for mixed pasta, is to make Pasta e ceci with the mixed pasta. There are many variations for Pasta e ceci. Here is my version, enough for two or three people.

  • One half pound of mixed pasta
  • One can of garbanzo or ceci beans
  • One cup of chicken stock
  • 1/4 cup of olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic (more if you’d like)
  • 12 to 15 cherry tomatoes
  • A nice handful of fresh, finely chopped, Italian flat leaf parsely (sometimes I substitute fresh Basil which completely changes the flavor profile)
  • Two pieces of Bacon or better, a nice slice of Pancetta.
  • One teaspoon of red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 cup of yellow onion (rather optional)
  • Sea salt and black pepper.
  • Parmesan (if you’d like)

This is a simple recipe. Start by heating half of the olive oil in large sauce pan, then stir in the onion which should be finely chopped. You can lightly salt and pepper the onions while they are cooking down. I use  a medium heat until the onions are translucent, then I add the garlic which should also be finely chopped. While the onions and garlic are getting to know each other I cut the cherry tomatoes into quarters and throw them into the sautee. A little more salt at this point would be a great idea and man is it starting to smell great! In a seperate pan I brown the Pancetta until it is crisp. (dice the Pancetta into small pieces) I take the crisp Pancetta and a tablespoon of the rendered fat and toss it into the large saucepan to merge with the onions and tomatoes. At this point I and the red pepper flakes and the chicken stock. While all of this goodness is simmering away you can drain your garbanzo beans and add them in. Bring all of this to a light boil then reduce the heat to a simmer for about 30 minutes. This stage of simmering is the perfect time to introduce the flat leaf parsely (or basil) I like to cook the mixed pasta seperately in heavily salted water…..this is a good way to ensure that the pasta will be al dente. It is time to mix the cooked pasta into your delicious Ceci soup and mix in the remaining olive oil. Sometimes I top with a little Parmesano and sometimes I don’t. Please enjoy your Pasta e ceci.

Here is another version of Pasta Ceci to ponder, a recipe offered by Laura Thayer, using a pressure cooker : http://www.ciaoamalfi.com/2012/03/recipe-pasta-ceci/

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Penne Lisce vs. Penne Rigate

4 Jan Penne lische or smooth penne.

 

Penne is among the most beloved of Italian pasta shapes. At first blush, all penne seem the same, but with closer examination we find endless variations on the theme; some are smooth, some have ridges. The length and width vary as does the intensity of the bronze cut. Essentially Penne are hollow tubes of pasta with each end cut at an angle. Penne has a few close cousins as well, notably Ziti and Mostaccioli. Ziti are rather similar to penne, except that each end is cut square. Mostaccioli tend to be shorter and wider tubes of pasta. Penne is plural for penna and derives from the Latin word “penna” which means quill. The english word “pen” stems from the Latin base as well. As a child I spent countless hours of creative destruction disassembling ink pens staining my fingers black and blue! The results were always the same: a large pile of hollow pen tubes and not much to show for it. I wonder if my love of penne is somehow attached in some way to these explorative days.

Penne rigate: these penne are deeply ridged or furrowed. The word rigate means “furrowed” This form of is ideal for capturing rich red meat sauces. Especially the slow cooked “Sunday Gravy” which features several cuts of meat, tomatoes and onions slow cooked for hours. I am also fond of Penne rigate and basil pesto.

Penne lisce: I find this form of penne to be well received in the summer months, when we might be seeking a lighter sauce. My favorite saucing of penne lisce is a simple marinara, finished with a drizzle of high quality olive oil and a handful of fresh basil: the essence of summer.

Check out this recipe from Food Network and Ina Garten, the bare foot contessa, showcasing penne and 5 cheeses! http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/penne-with-five-cheeses-recipe2/index.html

A picture of Penne rigate. If you look closely you will see the bronze die marks very clearly: this will allow the penne to hold onto sauce beautifully.

 

 

 

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Al dente

21 Dec

Al dente, when referring to pasta, simply means pasta cooked through but still firm in texture. Al dente literally means “to the tooth” Of all the things that one can learn about cooking pasta: the concept of cooking it al dente is so very important. I have found that the simplest way to insure that pasta will be “al dente” is to take one or two minutes off of the recommended cooking time found on any package of pasta. I always set my cooking timer to ensure consistent results. My timer beeps at the one minute warning: this is a great time to check for the perfect al dente texture. To check for al dente, simply pull a piece of pasta out of the water and taste it: the pasta should be cooked through and be firm in texture. This resistance or firmness against the tooth is exactly the source of the term. Many times I will pull the pasta off at the one minute warning, after a quick check, especially when you are finishing off your pasta dish by cooking it into your sauce of choice.

Did you know that there are over 600 types of pasta.

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Bucatini is much like Spaghetti on Steroids.

7 Dec Bucatini showing bronze die markings.

Bucatini is one of my favorite long pasta shapes. Bucatini is often associated with Rome or Lazio and can be found in abundance in this region of Italy. Bucatini is much thicker than spaghetti and is hollow. They remind some of pasta straws. It is interesting that Bucatini all’Amatriciana, a perennial favorite, which is a Bucatini dish featuring Pancetta, tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, spicy red pepper flakes and a generous amount of Pecorino Romano is not actually a Roman dish. It originated in the Abruzzo region and most often featured Spaghetti. Of course my comments will generate some debate but the truth always comes forth! I find that this pasta offers a wonderful alternative to Spaghetti. When cooked “al dente” the texture is wonderous offering a firmer bite and the perfect vehicle for a number of sauces.

A recipe to try:
1 pound of Bucatini.
16 ounces of good Italian Plum tomatoes (one can)
1/4 pound Pancetta.
1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil
Sea Salt to taste.
1/2 cup Pecorino Romano.
Red chile flakes to taste. (don’t be bashful!)

The technique is simple and uses two pans. Bring heavily salted water to a boil in a 8 quart pot. As the water begins to boil, find your favorite large frying pan and brown the Pancetta, using medium heat: it is best to brown the pancetta gently so as to avoid burning. Once the pancetta is beautfiully seared to a rich brown color, I remove it from the frying pan keep it to the side to be used shortly. The water is boiling by now, so place the Bucatini into the stock pot and cook them for 1 minute less than the package suggests, usually around 9 to 10 minutes. Lightly Saute the plum tomatoes, with pepper flakes, a bit of good sea salt and 1/2 cup of olive oil. When the pasta is ready to be drained, I add the Pancetta into the sauce….Bring the Bucatini to the frying pan and stir into the beautiful and ver simple sauce. I cook them together for about a minute then turn off the heat. This is the perfect time to add the Pecorino Romano, stir gently and serve. Often, I will drizzle a bit of olive oil to finish the dish. Buon Appetito!

Here is an interesting link to a Bucatini Carbonara Recipe from Food and Wine: Delicious!http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/bucatini-carbonara

Bucatini showing bronze die markings.

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